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Amy Lawless

January 22, 2007

It's no illusion

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As we walked into Mirage, the new Middle Eastern restaurant on Gay Street, I felt like we stepped into another world. I was struck by the warm golden glow of the lights and deep red walls, combined with the tinkly jingle of the waitresses’ skirts draped with belts of coins. We walked through striped curtains hung from the high, gold-painted ceiling towards the back of the restaurant where we were seated on soft pillows around a small table on a carpeted dais. The exposed duct work on the ceiling and the modern-looking bar give Mirage a distinctly urban feel, while the pillows and robed waiters recall a more exotic locale than our familiar Gay Street.

I have to admit I’m no expert on Middle Eastern food. So while I pictured hummus and pita bread and baklava on the menu, my imagination ended there. But I like culinary adventures, so my mind was wide open as I read through the offerings.

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December 7, 2006

Good bar food: who knew?

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As I strolled down Gay Street one Wednesday night with my fella, admiring the twinkly lights and hand-painted Christmas flags on every light pole, I reflected that I’ve never really enjoyed a meal at a bar before. I’m not bar food people. But alas, that’s exactly where I was headed for dinner: Sapphire, that hippest of hip downtown bars. Well, at least I’d have a good cocktail.


Entering Sapphire, we passed a group of friends dining al fresco and enjoying the unseasonably warm weather and the company of their very friendly dog. Once inside, we were quickly greeted by a pleasantly perky waitress who led us to the prime seating position in the front window. Totally private and ensconced in the seductively lit darkness, we commenced to perusing the menu.

First things first—cocktails. As it happened, we sat down before 7pm, which meant that it was happy hour. Yay! I ordered $3 champagne, and to my bargain-loving delight, received an upgrade to Domaine St. Michele Blanc de Blanc since the house champagne was out of stock. Our waitress supplied a bowl of crunchy wasabi peas, which had just the right amount of sinus-clearing bite.

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October 16, 2006

Chow down home-style!

If your culinary interests are playfully diverse—say, you enjoy your mamaw’s pork fat-soaked beans and buttery mashed taters as much as skinny lattes and tofu spinach salads—then you should check out Big Fatty’s in the heart of Bearden on Kingston Pike. Whatever your mood (or dietary restrictions), you’ll find something to satisfy.

Driving down Kingston, you’re liable to pass by Big Fatty’s without notice. Housed in a non-descript building, the restaurant is half-surrounded by a privacy fence, saving its patrons the embarrassing possibility of making eye contact with a West Knox News customer. But when you step inside, you’re greeted with brightly colored walls—mint green, pink, yellow—and eclectic art work ranging from jazz-era paintings to an ironic pop art image to an independent film festival photograph. When I walk into Big Fatty’s, I’m instantly happy.

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This Saturday as I happily sat down to lunch, I was yearning for some home cooking. I seriously considered the blue plate special, a BBQ pulled pork sandwich with slaw, but after perusing the diverse menu, I honed in on the veggie plate, featuring a choice of four side items from the long list of options. I chose pinto beans, mac and cheese, turnip greens, and green beans (corn bread comes on the side). Take note, meat-averse friends, that all side items are vegetarian-friendly. And as I found out, this lack of pork fat does not translate to bland food.

As I studied the menu, I couldn’t help but wonder about the folks behind Big Fatty’s. Who created this inventive commingling of healthy foods like the Happy Fatty Salad (wild greens, mangoes, blue cheese, pecans, chicken) and soul-satisfying southern meals like the Gangsta Breakfast (fried chicken, eggs, pancakes)?

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As luck would have it my server also happened to be a co-owner of the establishment, and she sat down with me for a chat to answer my burning questions. Ree (pictured left) and her business partner, Lisa, started Big Fatty’s as an on-location catering business for movies and commercials throughout Tennessee, Georgia, and North Carolina, and serve on the East Tennessee Film Commission. Ah-ha! So the menu was inspired both by the southern-style soul food of the region, and by body-conscious actors who demand healthy yet tasty options.

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