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Lawless Eats: Seoul Food in Knoxville

Just as the smell of fresh cornbread reminds me of my nanny’s house in North Carolina. The smell of kimchee reminds me of my best friend’s house in high school. Andrea’s mom, who moved from Korea before Andrea was born, always kept a large jar of the traditional cabbage dish on hand, filling the house with the pungent aroma. For me, the smell brings back lovely memories of laughing, eating, and stirring up teenage mischief. So when I walked into Korea House restaurant last week and smelled that familiar aroma, the memories came flooding back and I immediately felt warm and happy.

But the memories weren’t the only cause of my instant comfort—the warm ambiance in the restaurant would make anyone feel at ease. The minimalist design makes the space feel light and airy, and the hanging lamps draped with natural fiber paper emit a soft glow. Seven tables and one long table in the middle provide plenty of seating for the small restaurant without being cramped.

I knew before I arrived that I would probably order a dosilak, which is a compartmentalized box called a bento box, filled with a delightful assortment of tasty foods. I’m a sucker for multiple side items, especially when one of those side items is sushi. I settled on the teriyaki chicken dosilak, which I specified to be both spicy and sweet (I was given a choice and, failing to make a decision, asked for both). In addition to the chicken, the box also contained a salad, sushi, and fried shrimp and dumplings.

The sweet n’ spicy teriyaki chicken, served with rice, was perfect. I wouldn’t classify this as “hot,” but I’m not typically one for nose-runningly spicy foods. The spiciness was beautifully offset by the sweetness of the dish. The salad, covered in a ginger lemon dressing was crisp and refreshing and, to my surprise, fat free. This lack of fat made me feel fully justified in eating the pile of crispy fried shrimp and dumplings, which were filled with veggies, beef, green onions, cabbage, and tofu. The sushi was a nice accompaniment to the meal, and filled with crab, white radish, and cucumber, served with a sauce fuller than the typical soy sauce and wasabi combo, including sesame oil and ginger as well.

For a person who likes to taste a variety of foods in one meal, this place is a dream come true. In addition to our meal, Korea House provides a variety of side dishes for the table to share, typical of Korean restaurants in general. The side items change regularly, but on this particular night, we enjoyed spicy kimchee (some of the best in Knoxville); soybean sprouts, which were salty with a mild spice; pickled white radish, with both sweet and sour flavors; egg and veggie omelet; fish cakes, made with pollock pounded flat and deep fried; seaweed and white radish salad, which tasted of vinegar and mild spices; and zucchini, which was salty and light.

It’s a wonderful feeling to find another restaurant to add to my list of go-to places in Knoxville for good food and good atmosphere. And take note, fellow wine lovers: Korea House lets you bring your own wine with no corking fee. The next time you’re running through your usual catalog of places to grab a bite, add this one to the top of your list.

--Amy Lawless for Lawless Eats/ brilliant post-production by Grainger Marlar.

Comments

the video adds alot. great job! Justine would be so proud

This is great, I can't wait to see more of these!

I loved Korea House when it opened under its original owner. I'm glad the food is still good. I look forward to trying again.

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