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Amy Lawless: It's no illusion

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As we walked into Mirage, the new Middle Eastern restaurant on Gay Street, I felt like we stepped into another world. I was struck by the warm golden glow of the lights and deep red walls, combined with the tinkly jingle of the waitresses’ skirts draped with belts of coins. We walked through striped curtains hung from the high, gold-painted ceiling towards the back of the restaurant where we were seated on soft pillows around a small table on a carpeted dais. The exposed duct work on the ceiling and the modern-looking bar give Mirage a distinctly urban feel, while the pillows and robed waiters recall a more exotic locale than our familiar Gay Street.

I have to admit I’m no expert on Middle Eastern food. So while I pictured hummus and pita bread and baklava on the menu, my imagination ended there. But I like culinary adventures, so my mind was wide open as I read through the offerings.

For an appetizer, I chose the feta dip served with pita bread. This smooth, creamy concoction was tangy and salty with bits of green pepper, onion, and tomato. The white pita was nice while warm, but quickly became dry and hard, making it difficult to eat too much of the appetizer (not an entirely bad thing).

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Next came the salads: I ordered the classic tabouli, and my dining partner ordered toomya, a garlicky potato salad. The tabouli was a delightful shock to my palate with its pungent fresh herbs (mint and parsley), tomato, cracked wheat, and perky lemon juice kick. Of the two salads, however, I have to say I liked the toomya better. I’m a sucker for olive oil, garlic, and potatoes, and the hint of lemon juice enhanced the flavor of the dish.


For my main course, I chose Shish-Tawook, chicken skewers marinated in garlic and spices with onions and green and red peppers. The side items included mixed veggies (carrots, broccoli, zucchini) and deliciously seasoned rice. The Shish-Tawook was superb—the chicken was grilled to perfection, coated in a delicate yet satisfying garlic sauce. The crisp onions and peppers sumptuously complemented the tender chicken, and the portion was generous with two full skewers.

By the time I finished the Shish-Tawook, we had been lounging on pillows for over an hour and, lazily, I felt no inclination to leave just yet—not until I’d tried dessert. I ordered the dessert platter, which consists of konafa, a square of shredded dough filled with sweet cheese and honey; baklava; and basboosa, a semolina square covered in honey and lemon syrup. Of the three desserts, I preferred the honey-soaked, nutty baklava. The konofa reminded me of shredded wheat, only sweeter, and the basboosa looked like a blondie, but did not quite melt in the mouth.

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Mirage has only been opened for a couple of weeks, and as such, they are not quite at full speed. Much to my dismay, they do not currently offer a wine selection, though they do serve beer while they await their liquor license and allow BYOW for a $5 corking fee. Service was a bit on the slow side, and our waitress whisked off to the kitchen for answers to our few simple questions. Thanks to the comfy seating arrangement and kitschy Middle Eastern soap opera playing on the wall-mounted TV, however, we were in no hurry to leave this little oasis on Gay Street. And with the promise of a full bar and belly dancing in the not-too-distant future, we’re sure to return.

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Editor's note: Mirage doesn't appear to have a website, yet, but their phone number is
(865)521-5588, if you'd like more info.

Comments

Another great, useful review from Ms. Lawless. Thank you 520 for these.

I love Middle Eastern food. Can't wait for some baklava and baba ghanouj!

As they are working their way to a liquor license, is this the establishment that I heard-tell was going to be a wine/hookah bar on Gay Street?

Yes, actually another 520 blogger partook of the hookah last weekend (apricot flavored, I believe) and said it was "the pinnacle of the night." High praise, indeed.

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