Knoxville520.com

If your culinary interests are playfully diverse—say, you enjoy your mamaw’s pork fat-soaked beans and buttery mashed taters as much as skinny lattes and tofu spinach salads—then you should check out Big Fatty’s in the heart of Bearden on Kingston Pike. Whatever your mood (or dietary restrictions), you’ll find something to satisfy.

Driving down Kingston, you’re liable to pass by Big Fatty’s without notice. Housed in a non-descript building, the restaurant is half-surrounded by a privacy fence, saving its patrons the embarrassing possibility of making eye contact with a West Knox News customer. But when you step inside, you’re greeted with brightly colored walls—mint green, pink, yellow—and eclectic art work ranging from jazz-era paintings to an ironic pop art image to an independent film festival photograph. When I walk into Big Fatty’s, I’m instantly happy.

This Saturday as I happily sat down to lunch, I was yearning for some home cooking. I seriously considered the blue plate special, a BBQ pulled pork sandwich with slaw, but after perusing the diverse menu, I honed in on the veggie plate, featuring a choice of four side items from the long list of options. I chose pinto beans, mac and cheese, turnip greens, and green beans (corn bread comes on the side). Take note, meat-averse friends, that all side items are vegetarian-friendly. And as I found out, this lack of pork fat does not translate to bland food.

As I studied the menu, I couldn’t help but wonder about the folks behind Big Fatty’s. Who created this inventive commingling of healthy foods like the Happy Fatty Salad (wild greens, mangoes, blue cheese, pecans, chicken) and soul-satisfying southern meals like the Gangsta Breakfast (fried chicken, eggs, pancakes)?

As luck would have it my server also happened to be a co-owner of the establishment, and she sat down with me for a chat to answer my burning questions. Ree (pictured left) and her business partner, Lisa, started Big Fatty’s as an on-location catering business for movies and commercials throughout Tennessee, Georgia, and North Carolina, and serve on the East Tennessee Film Commission. Ah-ha! So the menu was inspired both by the southern-style soul food of the region, and by body-conscious actors who demand healthy yet tasty options.