Dennis Perkins: Tasting elegance
I wish that I could say that I eat at all the restaurants that I love whenever I feel the call for indulgence. Lamentably, that ain’t necessarily so: I feel the call for indulgence about 8 days out of every 7. If I could manage a weekly meal at both the Orangery and at the Northshore Brasserie, I would be a happy man – but if I tried that on my current budget, I’d be a very poor man indeed. Still, what I’ve come to understand as I approach my nth decade on this planet, it’s not always important to get the $20 car wash, sometimes, a $4 fix will do – and it’s the same for fine dining.
Both the Orangery and the Brasserie offer a bar. There’s a big difference between the two and that difference bears consideration. While the Brasserie has a noisy, lively polished zinc bar that doesn’t demand much of a dress code, the Orangery, in my mind, has a subdued atmosphere that invites a quiet glass of wine in decent duds. As such it’s a perfect introit for a classy date. Don’t even think about shooters.
Now the Orangery might faint to hear it, but when I want to taste a little elegance and some mighty fine wine early in the week, I’ve been known to slip into their bar. It’s not a big place, thank the gods, but it does offer utter elegance and the thrill of being able to say, “meet me at the Orangery for a drink”. I don’t recommend this venue for any kind of carousing, but if you’re of a mind to dress up and to feel really special then consider a Monday night glass of wine.
The Brasserie is a lively, noisy adventure in continental communion. The bar area is sizable but fills up pretty quickly after 7:00. Still if you can find a spot or two, you have the glory of sipping dry rose, pastis, or almost anything that strikes your fancy while munching on an excellent array of first courses from Frog Legs to Foie Gras. It’s pretty easy to spend a dime or two, but a couple of appetizers and a glass of wine is an affordable way to enjoy the talent of the place without missing the mortgage payment.